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Massawa: A Forgotten Gem By The Red Sea In Eritrea

Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea has an extremely rich history. It’s been part of some of the world´s most important kingdoms and empires like Kingdon of Aksum in the 8th century, the Ottoman Empire in 1557, Egypt in 1846.

It was also the first capital of the Italy Eritrean colony before the capital was moved to Asmara in 1891, Britain after WW2, Ethiopia when they occupied it from 1950 to 1990 and finally returned to Eritrea when they finally got their independence back in 1991.

One of the biggest battles in the 30-year year-long war between Eritrea and Ethiopia took place in Massawa. The evidence from the war is still extremely easy to see even today, 31 years after the war ended. More or less nothing has been rebuilt since the war.

Travel guide to Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea in Eritrea, Africa. Has an extremely rich history, from Egypt , Italian to English empire.
Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea in Eritrea, Africa. Has an extremely rich history, from Egypt, Italian to English empire.

While the capital of Eritrea, Asmara is located in the highlands at an altitude of 2,325 meters (7,628 ft), Massawa is located by the sea.

Hence, you will have to do a long ascent. In the older days dating back to 1938, it was possible to make the 120 Km trip on a steam train; it was considered one of the most scenic train rides in the world.

No trains, no tourists 

These days the train has stopped running, and the tourist has stopped coming which is a shame because Massawa has one of the biggest tourism potentials I have ever seen from the 100 countries that I now have been to.

There are paradise beaches just a short boat ride away, also their history, world-class diving in the red sea, and of course, Italian food.

The "Hotel Torino" built in 1938. now closed down in Massawa
The “Hotel Torino” built in 1938 is now closed.

Most of the buildings were Italian and Ottoman style.  Some buildings bear ancient Arabic, and there´s even an old temple standing. Even the ruins of Haile Selassie the Rastafarian Messiah and former King of Ethiopia´s personal castle are still standing.

Massawa in Eritrea east africa
The ruins of Haile Selassie the Rastafarian Messiah personal castle on the outskirts of old town Massawa

Even though the old city is more or less still in ruins, the locals are trying to have a functioning life. There are small shops, a few bars, a coffee house, and what seems like a newly built mosque.

Massawa in eritrea ruins
Life must go on, even in a former war zone.

If this part of Eritrea ever gets rebuilt, will the old bank building be a pearl in east Africa?

The old bang building in Massawa Eritrea
The old bank building in Massawa
Old Italian buildings in Eritrea
Memories from the old Italian area
old italian style eritrea
The war did leave its scars

The only thing that seems to be fully working here these days and not in ruins is the harbor that serves as Eritrea’s main transport hub for goods into the country.

Massawa eritrea port
Massawa port as seen from the palace
Massawa port in eritrea
The old town and parts of the port from my hotel room

Massawa is also the starting point for trips out to the Dahlak Archipelago (special permit needed in addition to the permit to visit Massawa) which is a group of islands consists of two large and 124 small islands.

I was lucky to visit two of them – Madote and Dissie Islands.

Eritrea beach in east africa

Dissie Island is the closed island to Massawa, but it´s still one and a half hours away with a speedboat (the same type of boat as the pirates in Somalia uses according to the boatman). It´s one of the only four inhabited islands in the Archipelago, but the people here live an extremely tough life. Even though there are a few newly built hotels with private bungalows, there are no tourists.

local house in Eritrea
A local house built up from driftwood.
Eritrea house in east africa
Kids were playing outside one of the nicest houses on the island.
inside eritrea house
Inside a local house, not much wind protection in those walls.

eritrea landscapeSo fishing is more or less the only income for the locals here. Most of the houses here are built from driftwood that has been washed up on the beach. But despite their lack of “everything” here on the island, the locals invited us for a few cups of coffee.

local coffee making in Eritrea
The coffee is being prepared.
coffee serving in Eritrea
The coffee being served
coffee jar in Eritrea
The traditional coffee jar.


Madote Island is no more than a big sandbank. The “island” is so small it´s not even visible on google maps.

You could easily have passed Madote if it wasn´t for the old rusted up lighthouse that stands on the islands. Or rather what´s left of the lighthouse.

Approaching the beach of Madote island off the coast of Massawa, Eritrea
Approaching Madote Island.
Eritrea's beaches in Madote island
The beach at Madote island.
island Eritrea
The view from the top of the old lighthouse.
Eritrea beach paradise
Panorama photo from my phone.
Eritrea remote island
The view the other way.
Eritrea lighthouse
What´s left of the lighthouse, the light has fallen down and now lay on the ground.

P.S – Sorry for the photo quality in this post, but my camera broke down, so I only had my phone to use as a camera on this trip.

Additional Information about Massawa.

Like everywhere else in Eritrea, foreigners not allowed to use local transportation, so the only way to reach Massawa is by hiring a car and driver.

Eritrea bar in Massawa
There´s no party without a chicken company in a bar in Massawa.

Scuba Diving.

Because of Massawa’s location on the banks of the Red Sea, scuba diving is an obvious activity here. Dhalak Grand Hotel offers Scuba diving with a licensed PADI divemaster, but unfortunately the divemaster not in town during my visit. A shore dive would set you back 850 Nafka.

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Travel guide to Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea has an extremely rich history. It's been part of some of the world´s most important kingdoms and empires like Kingdon of Aksum in the 8th century, the Ottoman Empire in 1557, Egypt
Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea in Eritrea has an extremely rich history. It’s been part of some of the world´s most important kingdoms and empires like Kingdon of Aksum in the 8th century, the Ottoman Empire in 1557, Egypt
Travel guide to Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea in Eritrea, Africa. Has an extremely rich history, from egypt , italia to english empire.
Massawa on the banks of the Red Sea in Eritrea, Africa. Has an extremely rich history, from Egypt, Italy to the English empire.

Ricardo

Thursday 21st of April 2022

David, Your photos bring back memories of my great times in Eritrea, especially Massawa. It was back in the mid 80s when the country was facing a decades long war and the worst drought in modern times. Although I worked, heading up a NGO, throughout the country, my favorite paces where in Eritrea. During that time it was still apart of Ethiopia. And for Charles and Russell, just about everyone I Eritrean I met had fond memories of the Kagnew Station, they called it, and especial the "soul music" they'd play from the radio station on the base. Maybe I'll share a few of my photos too. Thanks again for sharing yours. Ricardo

Marie-Noelle

Tuesday 28th of January 2020

Hello, I would like to go scuba diving in the Dahlak islands in March -April this year. Difficult to find information on how to manage to dive there. Do you have any experience on how to plan that once in Massawa ? Thanks a lot for any answer :-) !

David

Saturday 25th of January 2020

Foreigners can now use public transport and taxis to travel around Eritrea. thank for all the great info. I'm going in March 2020.

Christian L.

Saturday 25th of January 2020

Thank you for the update, I will update the information in the post

Russell Zaino

Tuesday 22nd of October 2019

I was with the US Army In Asmara in 68-69. Loved the people and the city. Are Locals friendly to Americans, former soldiers?

Christian L.

Monday 28th of October 2019

Hello.

I found the locals to be friendly to everyone, I meet an older American in my hotel in Asmara and he had a great time in Eritrea.

Yutaka

Sunday 18th of August 2019

"Like everywhere else in Eritrea, foreigners not allowed to use local transportation,"

Back in 2004, I could travel from Asmara to Massawa with a bus. Well, being on a fully packed bus with endless Eritrean bus is not for everyone but it was an experience.

Is there any change to the regulations on foreigners which I'm not aware?

BTW, thank you for posting beautiful pictures!

Rahul

Friday 8th of November 2019

That is not true. I traveled there in Jan 2019 and I traveled and roamed freely both in private and public transport without any issues. However, you do need a permit to visit places outside of Asmara but hardly there is anyone who ever knows that you need a permit, nor is there anyone to check your permit.

Christian L.

Sunday 29th of September 2019

Hello Yutaka. For years it´s been very difficult for foreigners to travel freely around Eritrea now, but it recently seems to have changed with the rules getting abit more liberal. So hopefully next year we can once again take local busses around the country:)